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In an exclusive interview with the Keswick Guide, climbing legend Alan Hinkes relives his near death experience earlier this year and explains why he has just completed a marathon trek to raise funds for mountain rescue.
LEGENDARY climber Alan Hinkes has faced his own mortality many times while climbing the world's highest peaks and entering the notorious "death zone" above 8,000 metres where the human body is unable to acclimatise to altitude.
Hinkes has climbed all 14 mountains-the first Briton to accomplish the feat-in the "death zone" where survival is measured in a matter of hours. He is part of an exclusive club of only 12 people alive who have achieved this feat, which is the same number of people who have stood on the moon. Many have perished attempting this challenge.
Yet ironically he came within seconds of being swept away and killed in an avalanche earlier this year while solo climbing a gully in Borrowdale. Other climbers thought he had been caught up in the avalanche and alerted mountain rescue services who were glad to find Alan had miraculously survived, largely thanks to his own mountaineering experience.
Now Alan Hinkes has completed a different challenge, travelling round England's 39 shire counties and climbing the highest point in each, to raise money for Mountain Rescue in England and Wales and say thank you to the teams who turned out to search for him after his close shave.
He spoke to Keswick Guide reporter Ross Brewster about his narrow escape, his admiration for mountain rescuers like those from the Keswick MRT who were one of the groups called out on the day, the air ambulance and the RAF who eventually flew him off the icebound Scafells back down to the valley. And he speaks of his love of the Lakeland fells and determination to return this winter, undeterred by his brush with death.
RB: Alan, I've got to start by asking you about that "near death" incident earlier this year when you were seconds from being swept hundreds of feet down a gully in an avalanche. Where exactly did it happen and how close a shave was it? How on earth did you manage to get out of the situation when other climbers in the area thought you must have been swept away and killed?
AH: Top Window Gully. A very close shave. I was on easy angled slope after the climb, about 20/25m from the edge when the slope released - wind slab. Suddenly I was moving, being swept to the edge, back over the gully and a 500m drop. I instinctively knew what was happening and started rolling and pushing myself to the side. With a great effort somehow I got free 2m from the vertical drop as the avalanche swept down the 500m face with a roar like a tornado jet. Two other climbers thought I'd been swept away when they heard and saw the avalanche. I was lucky that I was 20m back from the edge when the slope released. The crown wall slab break was more than a metre.
I reckon it was my instinct, experience, realising what was happening and very quick reactions which saved me.
RB: I guess it illustrates that accidents can happen to anyone on the hills and it's at times like that we value the mountain rescue services. They were called out in your case, but were obviously glad to find you safe and well.
AH: Roger that!
RB: You have just completed your latest challenge to raise funds for mountain rescue in England and Wales. What gave you the idea of climbing the tallest peaks in each of the 39 English shire counties in just eight days and what was the motivation behind it? How did you plan the route?
AH: Thought of it many years ago as a mini challenge--not as gnarly as the 8000m peaks (or even the Wainwrights!) but requires some planning and effort. It would be great, I thought, to see all the counties of England with a purpose. I like using OS maps too. I started from Northallerton, my home town, and the first hill was the Cheviot, in Northumberland, then it was on to Mickle Fell, Yorkshire; Burnhope Seat, Co Durham, then down the eastern side of England. Back up to finish on the three Lakes county tops. Scafell Pike, Cumberland; Coniston Old Man, Lancashire and Helvellyn, Westmorland. Casio Pro Trek sponsored it, Skoda lent a Yeti 4x4, Honister Slate Mine helped with a heli.
RB: You are best known for having climbed the world's 14 highest peaks, over 8,000 metres. What was the toughest mountain and just how did it feel once you had accomplished the whole feat?
AH: K2 took three attempts. Kangchenjunga my final summit was a near death experience. Pleased and satisfied! Felt like I'd done what I wanted to in life.
RB: You made Page 3 of The Sun with one slightly embarrassing incident during one of the climbs. The big sneeze. What was that all about?
AH: Chapatti flour-I sneezed and prolapsed a disc. I was stuck on the mountain for 10 days ‘till it settled down. Struggled to lower altitude so a helicopter could casevac me to Islamabad. Not embarrassing! It was traumatic! I had strained my back earlier and a sneeze is often the final straw.
RB: Receiving the OBE from the Queen in 2006 must have been a huge moment in your life.
AH: Really an honour. I was a bit nervous! Nice to be recognised for my charity efforts and mountaineering achievements.
RB: You started climbing when you were still at school. What would you say to youngsters who fancy following in your footsteps. What's the best way to get started and learn the ropes?
AH: Get good instruction, there are a lot of good courses available. Learn how to read an OS map. Gain experience - it's all about staying alive.
RB: If you had not become professional climber and outdoorsman, have you any idea what you might have done with your life?
AH: I am happy in the hills! It is where I want to be. Possibly an RAF pilot. It would be good flying through the Lakes.
RB: Have you any ambitions left to fulfil and what's next on the radar of challenges?
AH: Plenty of unclimbed mountains in the world. I've already climbed and named one Peak Fiona after my daughter - a 5,300m peak in Tien Shan. Possibly seven summits and finishing my book on 14 8000ers
RB: Finally Alan, I gather that you spend quite a bit of time walking and climbing the hills in Yorkshire and over here in the Lake District. As a man who has been to many exciting parts of the world, what is it would you say that makes our hills so special?
AH: Some think that our hills and mountains must pale into insignificance after the Himalaya. Not so, I am at home in the British hills. They mean more than ever. I really appreciate them and I feel lucky to be alive and able to appreciate them! I'm hoping for another icy winter. I did some fantastic winter climbing in the Lakes last winter - no need to go to Norway. I will have been in the Lakes most of October on the hills with students and for myself. Our hills are so friendly, but still should never be underestimated. You can have an exciting whole day or afternoon. The Lakes have so much variety of scenery. They are stunningly beautiful.
